Achtung, ich will tanzen!

Since the last time we met, I've: gone to two more Arabic classes, the last of which culminated in a four hour field trip with our instructor to various locales, including hungry, homeless children scamming our drinks from us, delicious fatir (the pizza thing we had at the party a few night ago), and a shisha bar; watched a movie called Fuera de Juego at the Ecuadorian embassy, for free, and in Spanish; missed a light show at the pyramids, discovering later that it was pretty lame and not worth the time to see it; had my fortune told (very indefinite: all "maybe"s); walked around a couple more hours in the streets of Cairo; finished a book or two; started another two books; and, well... isn't that enough?

Five hours from now we'll be waking up to jump on a twelve-hour bus to Siwa, where I'll get to lay by pools of crystal clear fresh water, bask in the sun, and die of dehydration. Also, a safari in the desert? donkey carts? no Internet? We're not sure. I'll let you know when I know, but if you don't hear from me for the next few days, I'm not dead. Yet.

Teach Yourself Arabic: Lesson Talatah

Without further ado, content: I have been taking a Survival Arabic course for the past four days. At 1:30 in the afternoon, I spend about three hours being drilled about the colloquial Arabic word for 'eggplant', or 'change', or 'where'. Despite a rough first day, it has been going pretty well, and even better on days when I study. Today I was called into the office for some reason to which my teacher was not privy, but I figured it had something to do with payment for the course, because they did not have me officially registered when I got there, and they had to add me to a list. I was correct. I explained to them that my home university would gladly pay them if they sent and invoice for the amount necessary ($200, I believe), though they didn't quite understand, I don't think, and asked me again where my receipt was. I reiterated that I was specifically instructed not to pay for the course, because my study abroad adviser would incorporate it into my program fees, and we wouldn't want to pay them twice, now would we? Eventually, he had my write it all down, so he could show the accounting department that something was being done about the delinquent who wouldn't pay his dues.

As I understand it, AUC will be doing this sort of thing a lot. Their organizational skills leave something to be desired, you see. Conversely, in some realms, they do much better. Take, for instance, the student party from which I just arrived home.

At 5:00 PM most of us were bused out to the new campus for the first time, which is located in New Cairo, about an hour through the desert, Southeast of Cairo (normal). I was amazed at the grandeur and excess in the $500 million dollar facilities, especially with all the fountains and landscaping that gives the distinct impression they plan on putting grass in (so much water!). Here is a power point tour that can serve as a replacement for the pictures I didn't take. We deboarded and walked towards the magnificent gates that led deeper into the campus, all the while obnoxiously loud techno music blared from an area near the edge of the grounds. We were told to wait, and then told to go towards the music, and then told to wait, and then told to go back, and then told to turn around again, and go towards the--now ready--amphitheatre, from which the music had been originating.

We were lined up in lines according to our sex, and then given our free gabaya (a sort of traditional outfit dress thing; I traded mine for a red, flashy, girl one--busting down gender roles, wooh!). A few carts were set up for food, including: koshry (Egypt's most famous dish, mentioned a few posts ago), ful (pronounced 'fool'; essentially refried beans in pita bread), an eggy-bread thing with vegetables and meat (after a bit of mangled Arabic, I got them to make a batch without meat for myself and a few other non-meat eaters), and shwarma stand (sandwiches made from meat that cooks on large, revolving posts). They also had coconut milk and really intense grape juice. Once we got our food we sat down in the designated area, which was also populated with rugs and chairs for a little more of a homey feel.

For the next five hours we were entertained with a DJ, Nubian dancers, an Arabic band, some Egyptian dancing, and more DJing. I danced my cares away most of the time, but took breaks for a self-guided tour of the campus and H2O replenishment. Andy didn't leave the floor except when we were forced to sit down once or twice, what an animal! There was also a belly dancing competition that I did not win, but I feel it was because the judge must have decided that comparing my dance skills to everyone else who was trying would have been unfair to the non-professionals. I mean, I even had those tiny hand cymbals for extra effect, so it clearly wasn't a fair contest. All in all I would say tonight was great, and AUC isn't entirely incompetent. I reserve the right to change my judgment, at least until I see how the rest of my schooling here goes.

Last night was similarly memorable. I competed in a scavenger hunt (where I also was denied my rightful title of Champion). My group (Steph, Miho, Chie, Chelsea, and myself) had 29.25 (we only got 1/4 a point for a picture of a place that used chopsticks, rather than the chopsticks themselves) out of 39 items found. Another group was said to have had 32, but after an examination of their checklist, we discovered that a certain, multi-part item was not counted as one point, and instead counted for each multi-part it had. We conceded defeat, however, as the other team had already been given their prize (100 LE, or about $20, towards a purchase in the AUC bookstore), and we didn't want to seem ungrateful for the chance to get free food and fun. Next time though, I plan on winning so hard that the other teams say, "I didn't even know you could win that hard. Wow."

Another yesterday event: I shaved my head and beard. Both were growing into the realms of unwieldyness, and I didn't feel like their upkeep was worth the trouble. Also, I didn't want to buy shampoo.

So, life goes on. I lost my debit card the same day I finally got my PIN reset, so now I have to wait until they send the new card to my mother, who then will be sending it on to me. I'm going to mooch of my friends for the most part, but being as I bought a meal today for the equivalent of 60 cents, I don't think I'll be needing much. Sunday we're heading out to Siwa, which is an Oasis near the border of Libia. There were mentions of a safari into the desert for the night, as well as donkey carts. I think it sounds lovely, don't you?

After Siwa, we're going to Alexandria for a few days, and then school starts on 7 September. I'm excited, because I like my classes and my fellow students. I'll make sure to keep taking pictures and posting posts, and you all make sure to keep sending e-mails and commenting on said posts. Stay classy, and good day to you.

Teach Yourself Arabic: Lesson Queen

Not much to say tonight, except that I had a terrible time at this Queen Tribute Concert. It was an astronomical $5 to get in, and then they played all of these rocking songs from way back in the 80s? I don't know what I expected, but it certainly wasn't a value, or good singing, or a fantastic guitarist who goes off on all these crazy solos. Next time, I think I'll just stay home and watch reality television. Much better use of my time.*

*All of the previous was typed in a very sarcastic tone, a point that I feel I must make so that my readers don't become convinced of my hatred of Queen, or cover band tributes, or anything awesome. It's just not true.

Been Through the Desert on a Horse with No Name

Today was the international student orientation, a shuttle ride through Cairo for no reason, a meal that involved a lot of mixed up orders, and horseback riding in the desert.

Yep, I rode a horse, in the desert—within a short distance of the pyramids of Giza no less—, and lived to tell about it. It was extremely fun, and I have now decided I like riding horses (as opposed to being indifferent towards it). Mom: get a horse already! There were some creepy parts, like how there were dead horse and camel carcasses along the path to the oasis/tent we went to, as well as how a Egyptian toddler's terrified screams pierced the night air as she was trying to get a ride back to town (and our guide just left her there...), oh, and one girl's horse ran ahead of the group, and she was nearly taken down an alleyway by two men who most certainly didn't have good intentions in doing so.

Still, it was great. Sometime later we may go back and try camels. They may not gallop, and they may be highly agitated at the slightest trespass... but damn, riding a camel next to the pyramids? I can't think of anything better.

Now: a few pictures.

Teach Yourself Arabic: Lesson Ithnayn

I feel I must catch y'all up before I let the happenings here in Cairo pile-up to undocumentable proportions. Hopefully you'll forgive me if you find I've glossed over some details, but yarns like the previous one I weaved will take much too much time out of my non-stop party lifestyle I lead here, so you understand, of course.

I left off Thursday evening, thusly I shall begin with Friday morning: I woke up at 6:00 AM, thinking my jetlag was already on the route to being mitigated, however, unfortunately, I was mistaken, and soon found myself snoozing until noonish when I was tapped on the foot and forced to leave. Andy and I got a taxi to the dorm, and made our way to our supposedly temporary, or "maybe not", they said, residence in room 315. I introduced myself to loads of people in the lobby who were in similar situations, most of whose names I still remember (my name retention ratio here is amazing, I think I might have hit my head and got a jolt to whatever part of the brain that is, because--really!--I stunk at it before).

The Student Life coordinator led us on our merry way to get mobiles, and being as I already own an unlocked iPhone (which took the pictures in the post a little earlier), I just purchased a SIM card and some minutes. My number is 016 194 7218, but you need to add a 2 as the first digit if you are calling from somewhere that is not Cairo. I also get free incoming calls I think? Try it and see, I suppose.

Anyway, next we stopped at the grocery store and then ate ate a cafe for lunch/dinner. For some reason they kept giving us free slices of cake, including carrot, which you should all know is my favorite kind. Alex, the half-Greek, half-Egyptian leader guy told us about various subjects we were curious about, including: food at the dorms (okay), food at the hotels some people have to stay in until the other dorms are finished (amazing), travel (fun), his favorite ice cream (mint chocolate chip?), and perhaps other things.

Some stuff happened, I don't really recall, but fast forward to the hookah bar. I got a drink made from hibiscus extract, which tasted similar to red Icee syrup, but was delicious nonetheless. I--*gasp*--actually tried the different flavors of hookah, or shisha as it is called in Egypt, which were peach, apple, mango, and... apple again? After that some more stuff happened, and eventually Andy, Max, Mike, Tiffany, Wagma, myself (and some others) strutted into the night to find excitement.

At first they went towards the same hookah bar we'd been to previously, but I talked them into trying to find some place further away, perhaps downtown. We walked for about an hour, through Zamalek (the island I live on) and along the bridge across the Nile (dodging traffic all the way). It was exhilarating, to say the least. Bored of the busy, car-filled streets, we turned down an alley, which may or may not have been a good idea. There were absolutely no women outside, and a group of ten American students was an extremely conspicuous sight. There were lots of stray cats (which is actually true of everywhere in Cairo, but especially in this alley), along with some butchers cutting up goats (stacking their heads in a pile, which was very interesting). After progressing through the stares of the locals, we moved on to bigger, less dark streets.

We were most certainly lost, because none of the names on the streets corresponded to names in our Lonely Planet guide's maps, so--after two hours of wandering--everyone except Andy and I jumped in a cab and went back to Zamalek for drinks and shisha. The two of us walked around for another few hours, meeting a guy name Cariim (who has a brother that lives in Uptown Minneapolis), who then tried to sell us perfume extract, which is what they make perfume from, I guess? Later on, after sitting peacefully by the Nile watching bats chase mosquitoes, another guy propositioned us for... *ahem* sexual relations. Being that homosexuality is a criminal offense in Egypt, I was surprised at his forwardness, but he was too pretty for me anyway, so we politely refused (after he touched Andy's lips with his finger), and went on our way. :)

It was well into Saturday when we got home and went to sleep, which I only did for four hours before I was woken up to go to the mall. We spent an hour waiting and driving, four hours there, and an hour coming back. I bought some soap, a dish for the soap, and some deodorant. For our room (which ended up being a permanent assignment), Andy and I bought a hotplate and a pot and pan. We'll be cooking to save money, even though I have never spent more than $5 on any single meal yet. At the dorms I: met another of my three roommates, Jonah (from Colorado), who went to sleep soon after unpacking, attended a pre-orientation for all the study abroad students (who continue to arrive in droves), and then was off again to the Nile for a boat ride.

We went to where a bunch of falukas were docked, which are sailboat-like things, but they apparently didn't have enough for all the students to go at once, so I chatted with people and took pictures of the kitties before getting a turn. Pretty much all I have to say is: awesome! We came back home, met our final roommate, Mark (from Michigan), and then he, Andy, and I left again to go out to dinner with Ashraf. Our courteous guide picked us up and drove us to Tahrir Square, basically the downtown area (where we had been trying to go last night), and we ate koshry, a dish that consists of: smaller, macoroni-ish noodles, rice, lentils, onions, spices, and maybe some other kind of bean? It was delicious, and I asked Ashraf how to make it so that I can feed y'all when I get back. You'll like it, I am sure.

After dinner, we came back, met a new, pregnant cat in our dorm, and then I'm here. Jonah is still asleep, and the other guys are either sleeping or quietly on their computers, I can't tell. So, now that I have caught you all up, I'll probably stick to shorter posts from now on. I've been writing for an hour now, and I have to wake up at 7:00 AM for the real orientation tomorrow!

The things I do for my adoring fans...

P.S. Post comments or send me e-mails, please! I'll post more pictures as they are taken, and my address when I figure out what it is (but I hear the postal service is notoriously slow, so don't expect much in the way of replies for a few weeks after it is sent). I'm out.

Just Pictures

Teach Yourself Arabic: Lesson Wahid

Well, I'm here.

I arrived in Cairo yesterday, which was a day earlier than I had thought was going to be the case. The flurry of events since I left my ride outside the airport is still fresh in my mind, and, because I am so nice, I will recount them for you in a complete and condescending manner, as I am known to do.

Getting my tickets and checking my bags proved to be as simple as could be, especially because I had wisely chosen to add a second checked bag to spread out my goods so that they wouldn't go over the 50 lb. limit. Security let me through without incident (ha, joke's on them!), and I read the fifth Harry Potter book as I waited for boarding and take-off. I had nuts on the plane.

My stay in Chicago was very short, as the line for the next leg of my journey had already begun, and boarding started shortly thereafter. On the plane, I met a nice young man who introduced himself as Andy. He told me he also was an AUC student (which I could tell by his Lonely Planet Egypt book), and we became fast friends. I slept very little, but I: read more Harry Potter, drank some apple juice, orange juice, and water, watched 21 and Drillbit Taylor (both terrible movies), ate the Indian vegetarian meal option, learned about Egyptian history, talked to Andy, and waved at the cutest baby ever. After about eight hours, we landed in Frankfurt.

Once I got through a second bout of security (slightly less smooth), the wait in Germany was also pleasantly brief. After boarding I found Andy sitting right behind me, but we didn't talk any this time. A few other AUC students were clearly visible from my middle-aisle seat, but the windows were not. I: read, slept through the meal, used the airplane bathroom, and waved at another (less cute) baby. We arrived in Cairo around 2:00 PM local time (6:00 AM CST).

It was hot. I followed my fellow students to customs, buying a visa for $15 before I went through (who knew it would be so easy to get into Egypt?). We grabbed our bags, followed our one-toothed guide, and boarded the shuttle to our dorms. The drive was crazy, being that the traffic laws in Egypt don't seem to be... well... there don't seem to be any. After our half-quiet, half-talkative jaunt, I compiled the following (incomplete) list for those who want to learn more about speaking Arabic.

The Many Translations of Arabic Horn Use

• Hey!
• You're drifting into my lane!
• I'm going to cut you off now!
• You're cutting me off, &%*#er!
• Hey! (angry)
• Get out of the road, pedestrian!
• I'm going to hit you if you don't speed up!
• Hey! (surprised)
• Oops, my hand slipped!
• I'm not honking at you, I'm honking about my frustration with the imperialism of the western world, and the way the developing world get the short end of the stick in every transaction, and also, my feet hurt!
• There is no one around me, so no one but the people in my car can hear this, but it's fun, so I'll do it anyway!
• Hey! (who knows?)
• You've stopped in the middle of the road for no reason!
• I might clip you, pedestrian, so watch out!
• Coming through!
• Look ma, no hands!
• Hey hey! (Krusty-style)
• You clearly have made your own lane between the other two, and I'd like to express my appreciation of your creative driving!
• I'm running this red light!
• !yeH (backwards)
• ...
• I like to show off my musical skills, but have no other instrument!
• (and many more...)

We got to the dorms and unloaded our bags, but then were told we'd have to find somewhere else to stay because the rooms weren't ready. Andy and I found an Internet cafe and booked a $6.50 per person, per night hostel near downtown. We negotiated cab fare and then were steered towards the cab driver's brother, who drove a regular car (not a cab). We spent the next 45 minutes driving around Emad El-din St. looking for the place, and eventually decided to just hoof it and see if we would have better luck on foot. We walked around the block, studying my hand-drawn map very carefully, noting that it was different from the Lonely Planet map, which was also different from how the streets were actually laid out.

A nice man stopped and offered to help, and after taking us through the streets (while we still carried all our bags) to another Internet cafe—so he could check the address—we were guided to our final destination quite nicely. He introduced himself as Ashraf, and then after helping us confirm our room (which hadn't gone through yet, being as it was done only a few hours before, over the web), he offered to meet us for dinner later.

We showered and rested, and then went outside on the street to wait for our new friend. After about a half hour, I went back through the alley and upstairs to our hostel, finding that we had crossed paths and Ashraf was actually upstairs waiting for us. We laughed a bit, and then loaded into his car. We went to the extreme opposite end of Cairo for some authentic Egyptian food, learning a good deal about Egyptian history in the process. For instance, the street names (like 26 July St.) were all named after important dates in the past (like the declaration of the republic, in 1952).

The food was plentiful and cheap ($10 for three people stuffed to the brim), and afterward we talked for a while about stuff. After we were driven back to the hostel, we went to our room and I read more Harry Potter. I think I also went on the Intarweb, but we can't be sure.

It is now 2:43 AM, and in an effort to regularize my sleep schedule, I must attempt to doze. I'll continue the rest of my story tomorrow, maybe. Let me tell you, it just keeps getting better. Until next time!

Here We Go Again

So, I've been harangued into updating this forgotten outlet for my creativities by various family members and friends. This, as you may know, is not to imply I don't enjoy blathering on about whatever strikes my fancy at any given moment, but I simply cannot bring myself to ponder on the mundane nature that is my life at this juncture, for fear this may actually start sounding like a blog (the horror!).

Regardless, here is the low-down on the goings-on of as-of-late:

• eight days, eighteen hours from now I shall be leaving on a jet plane, and I don't know when I'll be back again.
  
• the previously stated precarious nature of my return date is because I may not be able to afford life in Cairo
  
• the above is due to an apparent food shortage that is driving up the costs of food all over the Middle East
  
• also, my financial aid came through (only a couple weeks after it was originally supposed to have done so), and it is 25% less than the estimated cost of attendance
  
• good news: I will not have to live in a hotel for the first few months, as I was heretofore led to believe, and upon my arrival, I shall reside on denial
  
• note: denial is a reference to a large river that flows through downtown Cairo
  
• I promise future entries will be less...
  
• this way

I must now depart and prepare for D&D. Good day.